Thursday, September 4, 2008

The Hillary Step...

So for all the climbers, you guys know that famous photo of the two guys roped up climbing the Hillary step on Everest and the rope is blowing out straight sideways....that's what the first belay on Hollywood & Vine was like yesterday. To start the day off, we got really BAD beta on route finding from Rockclimbing.com. The route they said existed and was awesome was only a couple of old 1/4 inch button heads and not good at all. Finally we got to the belay, and the wind was pushing Lindsay off her stance. The 10c pitch looked glorious but we would have finished the day divorced if I had gone on to lead the 166 foot monster. We retreated around the corner to the more sheltered Soler.
For those of you who haven't done Soler or haven't climbed at Devils Tower, let me let you in on a little secret....that shit is sandbagged! By far the most exhausting and trying lead of my life. I was laughing the whole way up but I was gripped and tired to the point of puking by the time I got to the hanging belay. I am not a trad master, I fancy myself one as I sit in the chair looking at pictures of heinously thin finger cracks. When it comes down to the off fingers and off hands cracks and smeary feet for 160 feet, I kinda suck. I did it clean and it TOTALLY went on my 8a card but DAMN! We bailed after that and hit the road, we're currently kicking it at Al's Oasis in Chamberlain SD. We may hit up La Crosse this afternoon for some midwest sandstone if it's not raining, otherwise, we plan to sit in the car for 6-9 hours. I hate driving in the midwest, it's flat, there's lots of trucks, and not a damn thing to look at. But beyond the midwest lies...The Southeast....

3 comments:

Caley said...

We want pictures of the scamp!

Anonymous said...

I am so happy for the two of you. Congrats! SOrry I have been out of touch, I was in Kenya this summer and have been way too busy ever since I got back. I was hoping to make it to BJ and Emily's wedding to see everyone and I just couldn't make it happen. I hope the two of you have an awesome trip. I love Devil's Tower, you probably knew that though as you have always made fun of me for being a trad geek. I can't wait to hear more about your travels. You should drive through AZ on your way home. It would be so great to see you both and take you up Granite Mountain...trad climbing doesn't get much better than that.

With Love!

Courtney

Dave A said...

Hey L and L,

Nice work on Soler, one of my favorites, except for the last time I guided it with two clients. I had two ropes one for each client (both blue in color -thanks NOLS!) I was being belayed on one and just trailing the other, which was heavy but everything was going well until at 90 feet when I realized had be clipping all the gear I was placing into the trail rope AHHHH!!! Good thing I didn't fall. Be safe and have fun!!

There was an error in this gadget